For Creative Loafing Atlanta, October 2016.
Le Gomier is not a traditional restaurant. Nestled in an unassuming strip mall in Lawrenceville, it boasts no distinct landmarks nor nearby neighbors. And although the restaurant and event hall has been open for three years, it has managed to slide quite discretely under the radar of Atlanta’s culinary scene.
The reason Le Gomier not only survives but thrives with almost no marketing? A loyal following of Caribbean and African diners who treat the place much like their own family kitchen. Yes, there is a menu, but it is merely a suggestion. Regulars typically call in to place an order or just strike up a conversation with the chef once they arrive to determine what’s in stock and what they are in mood for. Published hours of operation are 11:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., but nothing’s set in stone. It’s best to call ahead before making the hike to Gwinnett.
The interior of Le Gomier is a banquet facility that can hold up to 200 people. Round tables are covered with colorful island print tablecloths and a small fully stocked wooden bar sits in back, where the regulars hang out. Caribbean rums, beers, and fruit juices are reasonably priced. Le Gomier is one of the few places in Georgia one can find St. Lucia DistillersChairman’s Reserve spiced rum, a unique blend of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut, allspice, and a tropical tree bark called Richeria grandis that is said to be an aphrodisiac.
The one-page Caribbean and Cajun menu gives only a glimpse into the kitchen’s capabilities, including favorites from the islands of Jamaica, Trinidad, and the West Indies. Owners Cheryl and Thomas Constable are seasoned chefs from the tiny island of St. Lucia with a combined 45 years of experience. They love to incorporate traditional recipes into their dishes.
Cheryl is particularly proud of her brown stew chicken ($8), huge pieces of bone-in chicken cooked in a thick gravy with flavors of cloves, nutmeg, and burnt sugar. “It is more flavorful than the other islands,” she tells me of her homeland cuisine, and I agree. The restaurant imports a specific seasoning pepper from St. Lucia that is similar to Scotch bonnets and twice as hot as habaneros.
Another popular dish is the oxtail ($13) served with rice, beans, and sweet plantains. Mild chicken curry roti ($8) is similar to the Trinidad and Tobago staple but served with a thicker flatbread to wrap the chicken and potatoes. Red snapper ($15) can be ordered whole or filleted with peppery blackened seasonings and a choice of two sides.
ISLAND FLAVOR: Red snapper with rice and beans, steamed vegetables, and plantains. Photo by JOEFF DAVIS.
There are also many off-the-menu items that diners can order if they know their Caribbean cuisine. A popular starter is accras, fritters made of cod or saltfish battered and deep fried with herbs and peppers. Mac and cheese is another St. Lucia staple. The Constables’ version is rich with cream, butter, milk, and a crispy layer of burnt cheese on top. “This is not your out-of-the-box mac and cheese,” says Cheryl with a smile.
The Constables often field requests for green fig and saltfish, the national dish of St. Lucia. Green fig is the local moniker for unripe banana, which is starchy and pairs well with the savory salted cod and vegetables. Vegetarians should simply ask for “ground provisions,” meaning any starchy produce such as dasheen (a variety of taro), yams, potatoes, bananas, cassava, pumpkin, or breadfruit, often boiled and mashed. For dessert, decadent banana bread pudding seasoned with cinnamon and nutmeg and served with warm rum sauce is definitely worth the calories.
By night, Le Gomier transforms into one of the most popular event spaces OTP. Almost every weekend is booked for weddings, birthdays, graduations, anniversaries, and Caribbean holidays. This is where the local Carib community gathers to celebrate special occasions with good food, drinks, live music, and dancing. The first Friday of every month is open to the public for a Caribbean style party from 7:30 p.m. until midnight. For $20, attendees can partake in a buffet dinner and dance to live R&B or DJ-spun tunes as they mingle with the diaspora.
Tickets are sometimes available in advance or online, but most hear about the events by word of mouth. That’s just the way it is here. When you’re at Le Gomier, you’re family.
For Creative Loafing Atlanta, October 2016.