Georgia Trend Magazine. September 2023 print.

Savannah’s Waterfront seems to be expanding in both directions. With the JW Marriott on one end and the Thompson Hotel at the other, there are plenty of dining options along River Street. The newest addition to the block is Fleeting, a modern chic restaurant that marries Georgia ingredients with internationally inspired flavors.

Enter through the Thompson Hotel lobby and linger at Bar by Fleeting for a sip and glimpse of visiting celebrities – Oprah Winfrey, U.S. Senator Raphael Warnock and Chef Mashama Bailey (renowned for her Savannah restaurant, The Grey) were recently sighted. Inside the dining room, copper-finished brick tile backsplash, romantic globe lights, comfortable wicker furniture and dark wood panels and floors create a cozy ambiance. Grab a seat at the long open kitchen bar or at one of the tables (there’s seating for 60) to watch the focal wood-burning oven searing perfectly charred steaks and chicken, garnished with colorful pickled vegetables.

Executive Chef Victoria Shore (formerly at Atlanta-based Castellucci Hospitality Group’s Cooks & Soldiers and Double Zero) brings her experience in Mediterranean and South Asian cooking to Fleeting. The menu is largely inspired by local and seasonal produce, which changes by the week. As the name suggests, the menu is “fleeting” so chances are you’ll see different plates each time you visit. Here’s a snapshot of what was on offer when we visited.

For starters, we tried the country captain spring rolls – an imaginative interpretation of Filipino lumpia. Curry-flavored ground chicken sits nice and tight inside crispy thin rolls. They are topped with toasted rice powder and almonds, golden raisins and a vadouvan coconut curry sauce for a complex savory, sweet and nutty combination.

Rotations of hook-and-line caught fish sourced from local boats are offered raw as fish tartare. Depending on the day, you may find citrusy cubed raw fluke with red radish chips or spicy tuna crudo with crushed, salted Georgia peanuts and aromatic huacatay (Peruvian black mint).

While wood-grilled whole fish and Grassroots Farm pork are signature proteins on the menu, Fleeting is one of the few spots that perfects duck breast. Seasoned with Chinese five-spice bean puree, the sliced duck has just the right softness and pink color. It is accompanied by spicy peach granola, sweet and sour apple gastrique sauce and dehydrated cranberries to give you a “Thanksgiving on a plate” feeling.

There are also plenty of vegetable-centric dishes on the menu. Seasonal offerings may include a delicate roasted beet salad with sunflower butter and sunchokes, marinated peppers, wax beans, okra or kale. The crispy potatoes are a staple and for good reason. Local heirloom Russian banana fingerlings are fried to a crisp and drenched with a luscious fontina and rosemary cream sauce that will make you want to wipe the plate clean. The wine-simmered mushroom rice plate also makes for a good side. The version tossed with North Carolina blue crab and preserved shishito peppers offers oceanic umami flavors. It is topped with toasted red pepper oil emulsion, smoked fish sausage and a sunny-side-up egg, its yellow yolk peeking out in the middle.

For dessert, house-made cruellers are a crowd favorite that stay constant amid changing seasonal bounties. The dessert is deep fried, yet warm, light and fluffy with aromatic orange zest, rich caramel sauce and a drizzle of powdered sugar. If you can’t resist the temptation of chocolate, the billionaire’s shortbread will not disappoint. Layers of pecan shortbread, salted caramel, chocolate ganache, salt, cocoa nibs and toasted white chocolate come together in a decadent bar.

To complement the fresh seafood and wood-fired meats, Fleeting offers a robust wine list featuring bottles from France, New Zealand and California. There are also creative cocktails that highlight flavor profiles from each dish. Try Follow My Lead if you enjoy sweet and spicy passionfruit with cinnamon vodka or Flying First Class for a taste of bourbon and aperol. The beer list also includes the non-alcoholic IPA Run Wild.

Dining at Fleeting allows you to experience the taste of the micro-seasons on the Georgia coast, ensuring freshness and flavor in very bite. With its complex flavors and global inspiration, Fleeting largely remains locally grounded.

Fleeting 

201 Port Street, Savannah, GA 31401
fleetingrestaurant.com
(912) 521-6150

Hours:
Dinner: Tuesday-Sunday 5:00pm-9:30pm

Parking: Complimentary valet for
dining guests

Dress code: Smart casual

This article appears in the September 2023 issue of Georgia Trend.

~ Written for and published by Georgia Trend Magazine. All rights reserved.